Question: What is “compost,” exactly? I’ve heard the term my entire life, but I’ve never really understood what it means.
Answer: Most gardeners and farmers know compost to be a rich, organic soil amendment, which can be used to improve soil tilth and supply plant nutrients. The term compost is also a verb for a rapid way to decompose and stabilize different types of organic materials, such as leaves, grass clippings, food scraps, manures, woody debris, and municipal biosolids.
During the composting process, different types of fresh, organic waste materials are mixed. Ideally, they’re mixed to have a total carbon: nitrogen ratio of about 30 or 40: 1. The moisture content of the mixture is also important, because rapid decomposition and stabilization depend on having a well-aerated pile.
Not too wet, not too dry
Too much moisture—i.e., too little air—and the process will become anaerobic. An anaerobic compost pile will undergo very slow decomposition and stabilization. More importantly, it will start to smell really bad! It’s also important to make sure the pile doesn’t get too dry. A dry pile will also stop the composting process and may even catch on fire.
If oxygen conditions are right, though (i.e., there’s about 60-70% moisture in the pile), microbes will start to decompose the organics. The pile will heat up to about 55 Celsius and should stay hot for several days or even a few weeks.
Heating, then curing
During this process, microbes in the pile will decompose a portion of the organic material all the way to carbon dioxide, but will also transform much of it to complex compounds typical of well-aged organic matter in soils. A stable compost will have gone through the thermophillic, or high-temperature, decomposition phase (this will also kill all pathogens and weed seeds) and then a slow stabilization or curing phase.
The resulting product will smell like a rich soil, and will provide a slow release source of nutrients for plants and a conditioner for soils. The critical parts of the composting process are the high temperature phase and the curing phase.
It’s also possible to get a product that’s very similar to compost by simply curing the same organic materials (i.e., without going through the thermophilic phase first) that are normally used to make compost in a controlled and monitored facility. In this case, curing will take many, many months, as opposed to weeks. But that is not true composting.
All compost is not the same
It’s important to know that not all composts are created equal. The nutrient value of compost will depend on the materials used to produce it. So, for example, yard waste composts made from a lot of branches in winter months will be very low in nutrient value.
In the summer, adding fresh leaves and grasses to the mix will produce a much more nutrient-rich compost. The nitrogen and phosphorus content of the compost should be available from the compost producer or listed on the bag for a bagged compost. In a compost that will be used to supply nutrients to plants, nitrogen should be between 1-3%, and phosphorus between 1-2%.
If you have a low-nutrient compost, it can be used as a mulch. Some composts, such as those made with food scraps and yard waste or municipal biosolids, will typically have higher nutrient values than a purely yard waste compost.
–Answered by Sally Brown, University of Washington
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10 thoughts on “What is compost?”
Great post! “Not all compost is the same”, so true. The US Composting Council has a labeling program for commercial composters, Seal of Testing and Approval. Look for the USCC STA logo in your home and garden store for quality composts. And if you love composting, make sure any disposable plastics and paper plates etc. you purchase have the “Compostable” logo. http://compostingcouncil.org/compostable-logo-project/
Thanks for the great information!
An outstanding share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a friend who had been conducting a little homework on this. And he in fact bought me breakfast because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanks for spending time to discuss this matter here on your internet site.
You’re most welcome and thanks for the feedback! Glad you scored a breakfast out of the deal 😉
55 Celsius? Isn’t that too low? Is it a typo? Isn’t 65 Celsius better (optimum)? Carbon to nitrogen ratio of 40 to 30 to one? Isn’t that too high? Don’t we want a carbon to nitrogen ration of 20 to 10 to one? Why do we care about the nutrient content of compost other than the carbon to nitrogen ratio? Isn’t that what fertilizers and amendments are for? Are we equating ‘compost’ and ‘fertilizer’ here? Aren’t we primarily after the nutrient ‘delivery system’ via compost? No mention of adding clay? Aren’t clay-humus complexes of critical importance? No mention of limiting volatiles?
Thanks for being a reader! As for an outside source to confirm temperature, please see Cornell’s compost information: http://compost.css.cornell.edu/monitor/monitortemp.html With regard to the other questions, we’re trying to give science-based relatable information to the general public – clearly you are an avid gardener and have delved into ratios and amendments more than most. We stand by our excellent informational post by Dr. Sally Brown. Again, thanks for reading.